Did You Miss Our January 19 Meeting?

We discussed the garden plans being developed by Julie Johnston at the historic Maasdam Garden site.  Julie is researching historic and period plantings from the late 1800's to early 1900's.  She will soon draw up plans for a variety of sites.

The Dear Iris column seems to be successful.  Perhaps the Fairfield Ledger will be publishing the column bi-weekly.  The first two articles were published on Tuesday and the latest one was published today (Thursday).  It is hoped that the column will run on one particular day and develop a "following!"  A number of Master Gardeners in attendance tonight indicated their willingness to address a variety of topics.  It should be fun!  If YOU were unable to attend the meeting tonight, but would like to address a specific subject in a "Dear Iris" column, please e-mail Julie at this address:  photo at ffledger dot com.  (I have written it in long hand... you can do it properly.)  She will keep track of various subjects addressed, so there won't be duplication.

Encourage your friends and relatives to write to "Dear Iris" % of Julie at the FF Ledger with their gardening questions!

Related to the discussion above, I will copy each post and publish it here.  I would like also to receive any information YOU have that the rest of us would like to know about such as, gardening symposiums and fairs, garden tours within a reasonable driving distance, gardening opportunities, etc.

A Nominating Committee was formed this evening to seek a Chairperson, Vice-Chair and Secretary for our group.

You will find a calendar of upcoming events in both the left and right sidebars.  Check them out.  Make sure that if you wish to attend, you register in Good Time!

Discussion also centered around the Fairfield Beautification Committee and the gardening nodes in the downtown area.  Hard-working, dependable volunteers are being sought to adopt one gardening node, plant and maintain it "in perpetuity" if possible!   Contact Karin Hauring if you are interested.

Our regular monthly meetings are planned for each third Thursday at 5:15 P.M. at the Jefferson County Extension building.

Master Gardener Meeting!

 Our next meeting will be 

January 19^th at the Extension Office at 7:30 P.M.

There is a Hometown Harvest meeting at 5:30 at the Activity Bldg. which is next to the Extension Office. An organic meal of pasta and soup will be served at 5:30 if any of you are interested. This meeting is about local food and the co-op we are trying to get started.

With regard to the Master Gardener Meeting:

We will be discussing the “Dear Iris” column, Maasdam Barn landscaping, other Master Gardener educational events in surrounding counties and anything else you want to discuss. 

See you there!

A Second Article Published by the Fairfield Ledger

 

It’s Time to Begin Spring Planting!

I’d like to share a VERY easy way to propagate new perennial plants.   Creating no-fuss, mini greenhouses is fun and nearly foolproof!  Please read this entire set of instructions prior to beginning this project.

Many seeds require stratification before they germinate.  Stratification is the process of subjecting seeds to cold temperatures for a period of time, as happens outdoors when seeds fall to the ground and are subjected to our winter weather.  The following plants represent those I’ve grown using this process:  Black-eyed Susan, Butterfly Milkweed, Purple Coneflower, Monarda, Joe Pye Weed, and Blackberry Lily.

If you have access to gallon-size plastic milk jugs, a drill with a smallish bit or an awl, a sharp knife or scissors, potting soil, seeds, duct tape, and a label-maker or permanent ink marker, roll up your sleeves!  You’re ready to create your first mini-greenhouse. 

Discard the milk jug cap.  Drill, or carefully poke with your awl, several holes in the bottom of each milk jug.  With your permanent marker, draw a horizontal line from one side of the base of the handle all the way around the jug to the other side of the handle.  The handle area will be the greenhouse “hinge.”  Cut along the line with your sharp knife or scissors. 

Carefully fold back the top of the jug; filling the bottom with potting soil to a depth of approximately three inches.  Poke several ¼ to ½” deep holes with your finger, place a seed or two in each hole. Cover the holes with additional soil.  If the soil is quite dry, dampen it with a spritz or two of water.  I use an old window cleaner bottle filled with plain water.

The best way to identify the type of seed in each jug is to label twice.  One label will remain inside the jar, written in permanent ink or marker, either in the soil or taped inside the jug.  Write the other label on the outside of the jug.  The outer label often fades by Spring.

Re-situate the top of the milk jug, using duct tape to securely fasten the top to the bottom.  You threw away the lid because precipitation, in the form of winter snow and spring rain, must reach the soil in your mini-greenhouse. 

January and/or early February is the perfect time to set mini-greenhouses outdoors.  Locate a somewhat sunny area that’s not sheltered by an overhanging roof and not subject to wind gusts.  I usually put mine on the easterly or southerly side of the house, next to leafless bushes and raised garden beds.   

A third hindrance to success is placing the milk jugs in an area subject to being covered by drifted snow.  Slow melting snow drifts would prevent your green house from receiving sunlight, warmth, and proper amounts of moisture, all of which are necessary for germination and plant growth.

Now, enjoy your mini-greenhouses!  Peek in there periodically, just for fun!  You should see some seedlings in April.  When all danger of frost is gone, remove the duct tape and remove the greenhouse tops.  You’ve placed the jugs in sheltered areas, so let spring breezes toughen the seedlings.   When it’s time to plant, scoop out your seedlings carefully, and set in the ground with a little slow-release fertilizer.

This is a wonderful way to gain new plants for your garden.  You MAY grow more plants than you need, so share them with friends and family members!!    We’d like to know how you do!  Submit your results to “Dear Iris” this Spring!

The Brenton Arboretum

The Iowa State University Extension and Outreach 2012 Garden Calendar is entitled "Public Gardens of Iowa."   It is now available locally at our Jefferson County Extension Office.

January 

features The Brenton Arboretum - A Natural World of Trees. 

"Committed to Natural Landscape Management"

You'll discover more than 2,000 trees, all suitable to central Iowa, in a setting of native prairie, wetlands, a lake, pond, and streams.  Become more aware of an aarboretum's ability to teach, calm, and inspire as you learn about a diversity of trees and the natural Iowa landscape.

January 2012 programs:

 Wednesday Wanderers
Wednesday, January 18th
4:00 P.M.

Winter Tree Anatomy and Identification
Saturday, January 28th
10:00 A.M. to Noon

Click the link below to visit their website:

The Brenton Arboretum

25141 260th Street

Dallas Center, Iowa 50063

(515) 992-4211

Open from 9 a.m. to sunset, closed Mondays, open most holidays.  

Free Admission - may be a small fee for class/workshop nonmember participants.

Amaryllis Angst?

This is an article that was recently published by the Fairfield Ledger, in an up and coming weekly? bi-weekly? feature ... possibly entitled something like, "Gardening - 'Dig It'!"  or simply, "Dear Iris."

Minerva is about to appear!

Amaryllis Angst?

Rest assured that you can enjoy an amaryllis now and again for several years!

A 5 – 7” pot with a drainage hole is a perfect “home” for an amaryllis bulb.  It needs to “feel crowded” to blossom.  Pot according to instructions, leaving the top third of the bulb exposed.  A bamboo stalk or tall plant stake should be put in place at this time.  Amaryllis flowers get very top heavy.  Inserting a stake now will protect growing roots now and keep the plant upright later.  Water well.

Your amaryllis enjoys bright, diffuse light and cool indoor temperatures (in the 60 degree range).  Turn the pot every few days so the plant will receive uniform light and grow straight. 

Keep the soil moist but not wet.  Feed your amaryllis with half-strength, water-soluble fertilizer every two or three weeks.  If you are fortunate to own a large bulb, you may enjoy two or three stalks in bloom over a period of several weeks.

After the last flower has faded, cut off the stalk near the top of the bulb.  Be careful not to injure the leaves or emerging flower stalks.  Prepare to expect a large amount of watery sap to run from the hollow stalk when it is cut.

In late Spring, after all danger of frost is gone, move your amaryllis outdoors to a partly sunny/partly shady spot.  Continue to fertilize through August.  Bring your plants indoors in September or October.  Cut off the dead leaves, and move to a cool, dry spot.  I usually take them to the basement storage room where it is also dimly-lit.  Discontinue watering.   As the remaining leaves turn yellow and wither, I cut them off.

To force the amaryllis into another blooming period, begin the process 6 to 8 weeks prior to when you’d like it to bloom.  Cut off any dead tissue from the bulb’s “neck.”  Remove the top ½ inch of soil from the pot and replace with new soil.  Water the bulb ONCE thoroughly and place in normal temperature and bright light conditions.  Refrain from watering again until the soil is nearly dry.

Once the first flower has opened, move the plant to a location where it will receive somewhat less bright light and cool temperatures.  This will help to preserve the flower as long as possible.

You can repeat this process for many years.  In fact, two summers ago, two of my bulbs created “babies.”  Last year I separated the small bulbs; planting each in its own pot.  I look forward to see the bulbs increase in size and begin their own flowering!

Enjoy your amaryllis!

With regard to the problem of voles in the garden, most recommendations include poison (which must be handled carefully due to children and pets), and mouse (spring-type) traps placed under boxes or inside coffee cans to protect other animals. 

Voles are reputed to enjoy eating tree bark as well as tulip bulbs.  Both voles and chipmunks are rodents.  My experience with chipmunks is that they also enjoy devouring tulip bulbs.  My attempt to separate chipmunks from my tulip bulbs includes two fairly easy methods:  1) After remove the dirt from a planting area, create and bury hardware cloth baskets, place the bulbs inside, fill with soil, add hardware cloth lids, and cover everything with the remaining soil, and 2) Remove the soil from a planting area, set bulbs in place, cover with a hardware cloth “lid” and replace the soil (which would again cover everything, including the hardware cloth).  

submitted by local Master Gardener, Kathy Tollenaere

Happy December!

JCHC Garden Fence

Kim Has Organized a Christmas Potluck!

Meet everyone at the Jefferson County Extension Office,

Thursday, December 15, 2011

6:00 P.M.

Christmas Potluck!