Minerva is about to appear!
Amaryllis Angst?
Rest assured that you can enjoy an amaryllis now and again
for several years!
A 5 – 7” pot with a drainage hole is a perfect “home” for an
amaryllis bulb. It needs to “feel
crowded” to blossom. Pot according to
instructions, leaving the top third of the bulb exposed. A bamboo stalk or tall plant stake should be
put in place at this time. Amaryllis
flowers get very top heavy. Inserting a
stake now will protect growing roots now and keep the plant upright later. Water well.
Your amaryllis enjoys bright, diffuse light and cool indoor
temperatures (in the 60 degree range).
Turn the pot every few days so the plant will receive uniform light and
grow straight.
Keep the soil moist but not wet. Feed your amaryllis with half-strength, water-soluble
fertilizer every two or three weeks. If
you are fortunate to own a large bulb, you may enjoy two or three stalks in bloom
over a period of several weeks.
After the last flower has faded, cut off the stalk near the
top of the bulb. Be careful not to
injure the leaves or emerging flower stalks.
Prepare to expect a large amount of watery sap to run from the hollow
stalk when it is cut.
In late Spring, after all danger of frost is gone, move your
amaryllis outdoors to a partly sunny/partly shady spot. Continue to fertilize through August. Bring your plants indoors in September or
October. Cut off the dead leaves, and
move to a cool, dry spot. I usually take
them to the basement storage room where it is also dimly-lit. Discontinue watering. As the remaining leaves turn yellow and
wither, I cut them off.
To force the amaryllis into another blooming period, begin
the process 6 to 8 weeks prior to when you’d like it to bloom. Cut off any dead tissue from the bulb’s
“neck.” Remove the top ½ inch of soil
from the pot and replace with new soil. Water
the bulb ONCE thoroughly and place in normal temperature and bright light
conditions. Refrain from watering again
until the soil is nearly dry.
Once the first flower has opened, move the plant to a
location where it will receive somewhat less bright light and cool
temperatures. This will help to preserve
the flower as long as possible.
You can repeat this process for many years. In fact, two summers ago, two of my bulbs
created “babies.” Last year I separated
the small bulbs; planting each in its own pot.
I look forward to see the bulbs increase in size and begin their own
flowering!
Enjoy your amaryllis!
With regard to the problem of voles in the garden, most
recommendations include poison (which must be handled carefully due to children
and pets), and mouse (spring-type) traps placed under boxes or inside coffee
cans to protect other animals.
Voles are reputed to enjoy eating tree bark as well as tulip
bulbs. Both voles and chipmunks are
rodents. My experience with chipmunks is
that they also enjoy devouring tulip bulbs.
My attempt to separate chipmunks from my tulip bulbs includes two fairly
easy methods: 1) After remove the dirt
from a planting area, create and bury hardware cloth baskets, place the
bulbs inside, fill with soil, add hardware cloth lids, and cover everything
with the remaining soil, and 2) Remove the soil from a planting area, set bulbs
in place, cover with a hardware cloth “lid” and replace the soil (which would
again cover everything, including the hardware cloth).
submitted by local Master Gardener, Kathy Tollenaere
